Why write about Michael Jackson?

I cannot make any real connection between Michael Jackson and Judaism.  But, after watching the entire memorial service for Michael Jackson (there was nothing else on, even in Israel), I feel inspired to write.

Michael Jackson was a talent.  He was, in his prime, an 'A-List' entertainer.  His work with the Jackson 5 was superbly representative of a specific kind of late 60's/early 70's Motown/ethnic music.  As a solo act, Michael Jackson produced the best selling record of all time, Thriller.  Jackson's work in music videos was singularly influential:  there's Michael Jackson and there's no one else.

In my opinion, the actual music was not particularly groundbreaking.  I think Smokey Robinson--one of the great songwriters of the pop world--was being generous in claiming Michael was the best performer that ever lived.  He wrote hit songs...Billie Jean and Beat It are two, but he was certainly not a songwriter in the category of Lennon, MacCartney, Smokey Robinson himself, Lieber/Stoller, Stevie Wonder...just to name a few and without even getting into Gershwin, Berlin, etc.  Of course, Frank Sinatra was not a song writer either; nor was Elvis.  Jackson was certainly a significant black artist who was among the early generation major black entertainers to appeal equally to all races. 

I think it is fine that he was hailed as the 'greatest' performer ever in the history of the universe  or of any universe to come...this is the kind of thing that happens at memorial services.  And, if those who control his estate are smart, he'll find that while death isn't so great for your life, it's often great for your career. And, for the past 15 years, Michael Jackson's had no career.  He's been a freak show, but musically irrelevant.

Although I watched the entire memorial, I found was disturbed by it.  I felt as a voyeur...I kept thinking about those children of his and his parents.  I kept wondering if this memorial service actually served any therapeutic value for the family.  But, of course, the family permitted this and likely wanted it.  They could have had a private ceremony.  

Which led me to realize how much Michael Jackson was, more than anything, the world we live in today.  Virtually every moment of his life and his death was open for the world to see and we couldn't get enough.  From his stunning performances as a cute 10/11 year boy, to the 'Wacko Jacko' plastic surgery, dangling babies, child molestation charges--there was nothing off limits about his life.  And in some way, his parents are responsible for that and clearly, he stood in a difficult relationship with his own fame.  He clearly craved the spotlight as he was repelled by it. 

Very, Very Kosher

I ate at a lovely cafe this evening...Cafe Masrik, on the corner of Masrik Street and Emek Refaim.  While I was dining, two men and a woman came into the restaurant.  One of the men asked in Hebrew (based on his accent and subsequent conversation in English, I inferred he was an American) to see the restaurant's certificate of Kashrut, which was kept in a spot right next to my table.  The other gentleman looked it over for about 3 minutes and then handed the certificate back to the waitress.  The first guy asked 'will you be able to eat here?'  The guy who read the certificate shrugged with one of those 'I don't know' shrugs.  They sat down at a table and they were eating when I left, so I guess it was OK.  

Now, the  interesting thing is that this was a dairy restaurant.  So, there's no meat, only fish and, of course, dairy.  How do I know this?  Aside from the menu, there is a sign on the door that indicates the restaurant is a diary, kosher restaurant.  What can really go wrong in terms of Kashrut in a dairy restaurant? Well, perhaps someone is in the back putting small pieces of steak into the cheesecake...sort of like in the movies when a restaurant worker spits in the food before it is served to his enemy.  That wouldn't be in the certificate anyway.

No, this guy wants to know which rabbi approved this restaurant and which form of Kashrut this restaurant adheres to.  Is it mehadrin?  Meaning, 'beautified' or 'to beautify'  it is a 'more strict' form of kashrut.  You should all know my feelings about his...you're kosher or you aint.   The End.

So, this is what it has come to for some Jews...walking into a restaurant in JERUSALEM, with an official heksher or kosher seal and rather that take anyone's word for it, you must inspect the certificate.  This is Judaism?  No, this is nareshkeit--nonsense.

Another thing:

My apartment is on a street that is in constant use by people learning to drive.  Based on the way people drive, I was surprised to learn that they received any driver's education whatsoever.  They have lots of traffic circles in Israel and apparently the Israeli way is to close your eyes and blindly drive into the circle without stopping. 

Today I saw a woman riding a 'scooter' trying to pass a car on the left, essentially on the yellow line that divides the road from on-coming traffic.  She fell!  Cars stopped, people helped her up, she walked to the side...I didn't see anything else because I was passed the scene by the time she was on the sidewalk.  

On the plus side, police have more important things to do than give out tickets for reckless driving.  So, since no one is going to get a ticket anyway, it's a free-for-all.  

One thing I actually like is that people aren't all hug up with parking rules.  You can park anywhere and anyway you want:  on the sidewalk, perpendicular to the street, parallel to the street--it's all good!  There is pay parking--and of course, there is a guy everywhere with timer hooked up to the U.S. Naval Atomic Clock and if you are even a nanosecond late, you get a ticket.  But, I really haven't had a problem parking anywhere...there's lots of pay parking, it's easy to use and as a last resort, I simply get out of my car and leave it.

Shabbat in Jerusalem

The Mamilla Mall is recently opened in Jerusalem.  This mall has been under construction for about, oh, 40 years.  To put that in perspective, it took Solomon 7 years to build his Temple, which, today, happens to be essentially next to the Mall!

So, the Mamilla Mall is right next to the Old City.  Remember that parking lot of which I spoke?  that's below the mall.  I went to the Old City today and parked there...very convenient!  And, crowded!  The Mall connects directly to the Old City via a bridge that leaves you right at the Jaffa Gate.  A significant improvement over the previous entry...which was to dodge a bunch of cars and run for your life.

The Mall was designed by Moshe Safdie, who designed the City Library in Salt Lake City and the Hebrew Union College in Jerusalem.  (We invited him to participate in the design of our synagogue...he declined.)  As Malls go, it is VERY nice.  Think Gateway in Salt Lake...It is an open-air, pedestrian mall with two levels.  As you walk there are two levels of stores on both sides of you (in many places).  The stores are rather pedestrian (pardon the pun).  H. Stern, Rolex, a bunch of Israeli stores, Cafe Aroma, blah, blah, blah.  The Mall looks great.  It's all in Jerusalem stone (surprise!).  But, I'm not quite sure how I feel about it.  On the one hand, I'm all for progress.  On the other hand, this IS Jerusalem.  I'm not sure how'd I'd feel about a mall directly connected to Independence Hall.

I walked around the Old City; I went up to the rooftops, which is one of the best spots in the Old City.  I took some pictures.  Here's one:

Shabbat Begins

Shabbat is about to begin here in Jerusalem.  I've written before that Shabbat in Jerusalem is different from virtually anywhere else in the world.  The city essentially closes; there's nothing to do except 'observe' Shabbat in some way...even if you are simply at home or with friends.

Many Jews in America may not be aware of a rather low-level news story about parking in Jerusalem.  Essentially, certain groups of Orthodox Jews opposed opening certain parking lots on Shabbat. To his credit, the mayor of the Jerusalem, Nir Barkat, kept one of the two in question open (in an area called Mamilla, near the Old City).  What makes this more than a simple issue of zoning or developement is that these Orthodox groups not only opposed the parking lots, but as well they protested--on Shabbat!  Yes, on Shabbat, they gathered and protested on Shabbat and not only in a peaceful rally.  They threw stones and other things and quite a few were arrested.  

I read in the newspapers that a journalist asked them 'aren't you violating Shabbat by protesting?'  The answer:  'we are desecrating Shabbat to prevent the desecration of Shabbat, just as you are permitted to kill someone to prevent your own death.'  Really?  Opposing a parking lot is the same as preventing your own death?  

Admittedly, this story does not possess the gravitas of, for example, the Mid East crisis itself, but none-the-less it is a slice of life in Israel.

 I'm staying in an area near the German Colony.  The German Colony is called the German Colony because it was founded by...Germans!  Well, Okay, there's a bit more to it than that.  The German Colony was founded by a group of 'Templars' from German, not to be confused with the 'Knights of the Templars.'  The Templars were a Lutheran sect that believed settlement of Israel was a predicate to the second coming of Jesus.  They established a number of  settlements in Israel and the German Colony in Jerusalem is the most well-known.

The German Colony is now one of the more desirable neighborhoods in Jerusalem, especially among Americans.  The neighborhood is lovely...and expensive.  There are lots of ex-pats, from America, from France, from England,  Australia and Canada.  Some of them live here full-time; others own second homes; Jerusalem is their Park City.

Lights have begun to turn on around these streets.  Out the window of my kitchen,  I can see parts of the beautiful hills around Jerusalem, dotted with construction cranes.  The streets below are quiet.  It is a lovely Shabbat...Shabbat Shalom.

Early Days in Israel

Israel is hot.  Very hot.  Africa hot.  According to the weather forecast, later in the week may be a bit cooler.

Today was my first day of Hebrew studies.  I studied for about 6 hours.  I'm in the advanced level, which sounds impressive, but you realize how far you have to go if I am advanced.  I cannot yet read a 'real' newspaper (as opposed to the kind published for people just learning Hebrew) and I only get about 50% comprehension when I listen to the television.  I'm not sure I'll achieve my goal of being completely fluent, but I'll try.

Speaking of Israeli TV, its difficult to put into words how bad it is.  I guess on the plus side, you don't have to be good looking or, quite frankly, have recently taken a shower, in order to be on TV.  The talking heads and 'hosts' seem to be people that have rolled out of bed onto a television set. 

In fairness, it's mostly the men.  The women are dressed nicely.    The weather guy on channel 10--I kid you not--was wearing jeans and a purple golf shirt to night.  On another channel, there's a show called 'Nightclub', which is actually a bunch of people sitting around making fun of the news.  And, it's funny.  One of the guys is wearing a t-shirt that looks like its been on him for days.  And comb your hair?  Why?  Again, the woman look put-together.  This is actually a pattern you seen on the street as well. 

Some random comments:  the smoking situation is improving if you are a non-smoker.  There's essentially no smoking in restaurants, the airport, and other public places.  But, the rate of smoking is much higher here than in the States...everyone is smoking outside...If you are paying attention, you see that more and more restaurants are 'kosher mehadrin' meaning the absolute strictest level of kashrut.  I've blogged about this before:  either you are kosher or you're not--it's like being pregnant.  Mehadrin means 'beautify' and the idea is to 'beautify' kashrut by keeping the strictest possible form of it.  So, when there is a choice between a more lenient form of kashrut and a more stringent form of kashrut, you choose the more stringent form.  More on this later.

We'll always have Paris

I am sitting in at gate E59 at Charles de Gaulle in Paris waiting for my Air France flight to Tel Aviv.  I'm traveling to Israel to study Hebrew.  It's been 26 years since I've been in France.

First thing that strikes me about this airport is that the food is horrible.  Here we are in Paris and the only places to eat are crappy little 'cafeterias' at which you can buy tasteless sandwiches (mostly ham & cheese) and the ubiquitous croque monsieur, which in case you don't know is toasted ham & cheese.  Really can't even get a decent, European cup of coffee.  In this huge terminal there isn't an actual sit-down restaurant, brasserie, or cafe that serves a cooked-to-order meal.

When I first traveled to France, I was so excited to visit...the culinary capital of the Western World.  Fresh croissant, bouillabaisse, superb wine, the greatest chefs in the word and le croque monsieur?  What?  As in you're joking?  Now, we American's eat burgers, etc., but, then again, we don't claim to have pretensions of haute cuisine.  but, a toasted ham and cheese sandwich?  That's the French national dish?  Everywhere you go, le croque monsieur is there, as if the French name for a toasted ham and cheese sandwich makes it somehow more exotic than the 'ham & cheese.'  No matter what you call it, it's ham and cheese.  What a disappointment!

I'm also reminded that customer service is not a French specialty.   I finally went to a kiosk kind of thing and the woman working barely spoke a word to me during our 5 minute transaction.  When it took me literally a nano second to figure out how to work the machine that reads your debit card (a bit different than in the States, with all the directions in French), she reached across the counter, grabbed the card from my hand and ran it herself. 

The dollar ain't what it used to be. For about 14 euros--$20, I got a thimble full of coffee, a 1/2 of a cheese sandwich (though it was goat cheese plus a slice of tomato) and a very bad chocolate croissant (Albertson's is better).  

When you leave our little slice of heaven in Park City, the first thing you notice is that most of the world is not white.  That's obvious.  But here Terminal 2E of de Gaulle, you can't help but be struck by the huge number of people I take to be Muslims.  I draw this conclusion based on the number of women wearing some form of burkha, hijab or chadri.  At least in this terminal, which is an international terminal, I would say, conservatively, Muslims, are 30% of the people here.

Iran, Israel, Bibi and More

What should President Obama do about the Iranian elections?

One school of thought suggests that the President should show solidarity with the protestors and with the opposition.  Stephen Hayes, of the Weekly Standard, criticizes Obama for not using this moment to "stand as one' with the people of Iran, words Obama himself used in a speech he gave in Berlin while still a candidate.  Hayes goes further and suggests that the Iranian elections are analogous to the Berlin Airlift...uhhh..., no. 

The United States was a direct protagonist in the Airlift.  The Soviets cut off access to the western sectors of Berlin controlled by the United States and our allies.  This was a direct confrontation between the United States and The Soviet Union...far different circumstances than exist today in Iran.

First, the United States actually (surprise!) had nothing to do with the elections.  This is strictly an issue between the Iranian government and its people.  Second, the idea that the United States should support the opposition because it is 'democratic' is preposterous.  Iran is a dictatorship...true control of the government rests with appointed Muslim clerics.  The presidency is a concession to a vague idea of democracy...it's throwing a bone to the people.  The four candidates that ran in this election all pledged fealty to the ayatollahs.  Hossein Musavi, the main opposition candidate was himself part of the establishment during the Iranian Revolution of 1979.   I've read that's his become more 'liberal.'  Nonetheless, he still would owe his election to the ayatollahs...

Third, when has meddling in the affairs of another country...especially a middle eastern one, every paid off for the U.S.? Mostly, not.

So, on this issue, Obama is taking the correct approach...there is very little way for the United States to 'win' by taking sides.